Using .htaccess to password protect a folder? Well, it might just stop working. In fact, don’t use shared hosting for anything not static. Or anything that matters.
Well, don’t have to share any photos I take anyways. Not paying for something to do it. Sending a bunch of photos by email, not a good solution. If somebody wants any photos I take, they can figure it out, cause it’s not worth my time anymore.
Sleeping is more fun, then having massive sleep issues.
Want to hear a bunch of paranoia? Go to the funny farm.
Only thing I was paranoid about, was the security camera was providing me with safety. Well, the staff are.
And they aren’t just watching the live feeds.
A staff member said, they check on me every 15 minutes. Don’t ask me how they did that, for so long, without me noticing.
What are the nurses doing in the nurses station?
They all have their pants down, and are watching the live cameras.
Wasn’t expecting that at all.
Couldn’t install using waydroid install. Oh wait, maybe cause I wasn’t root, I assume I wasn’t. Just said nothing.
Well, I copied it to ~/.local/share/waydroid/data/media/0/Download, installed App Manager, and installed it.
I did use this to get ARM crap working. And widevine.
Does that mean ADBTuner works? Well, I should probably just put it in a VM though. And there might be a newer malware Android image for for Android TV.
Also, to make ADBTuner work, you either need an HDMI encoder, or you know, do some custom stuff to make it work.
Too lazy to search nowadays. The reason I wanted to see if it worked in Waydroid.
Want a usable Android phone? Use Waydroid on your computer. Also, I now wonder how fast Apple’s custom CPUs really are. The only way to find out, is to use Linux on one of them. And on my Mac mini, kind of pointless, still not all GPU stuff working I don’t think.
I do know macOS sucks with only 8 GB of RAM. One reason the Mac mini is off. It’s also spyware, just like Android, and Windows, and basically everything. Including the internet.
Fast CPUs, that are basically useless. It’s all about “security” and “privacy”. Just like Google, they don’t do evil. Well, in the future, you may be unable to install anything except for regime approved.
The future for “smart” TVs is looking good too. Nothing will be able to be plugged into the “smart” TV. Regime approved crap only. They have all the tech needed to make it happen.
Did have to login to Philo with my phone number for some reason.
Well, does ADBTuner do rtmp? Then I just need OBS, and then an rtmp server. Might as well test it on my laptop, as it is currently setup. Before putting anything in a VM.
Is there a Kodi add on for Philo? Or some way to send Philo from Waydroid to it? Then I don’t have to use a browser.
I noticed a while ago, I have an FLIRC or whatever too. So plug that into one of my computers, laptop or desktop. Did it on laptop, not sure how easy to setup Waydroid in openSUSE Tumbleweed is.
Or actually, don’t bother with that, just use Bluetooth on the remote. Then I don’t need line of sight. Then I can stream it from my desktop or laptop, and control it without being in front of computer.
And you need an Android TV box to use ADBTuner. Well, maybe you do, sort of.
Just get a HDMI encoder, plug computer into it, and put Waydroid on it. ADB is supposed to work with Waydroid.
Nice it has it’s own IP address.
A VM might not exactly be needed. Just make a new user, and lock it down. Except, some of it by be root. VM probably safer.
Also install a self signed certificate, so you can see what it’s doing on the internet. Nothing like decrypting SSL, on your own device.
Looks like human beings have too much freedom on this planet, now the selfish humans are going to fix that.
Playing stuff works, didn’t turn volume on though.
Well, it could be easy to fix ADBTuner if it breaks, as easy as Chrome. Or maybe not that easy.
Might just need the deeplinks.
And I do have root as well. Philo doesn’t seem to care. Don’t have it registered either. Not even sure I needed microG, which the standard one installs Google Play. Which I don’t want. Might try without microG if I redo it in a VM.
Also, is this Android app compiled for x86_64? If not, pretty good performance. Better then compiling shit for ARM from Linux, using qemu.
And OBS is setup on desktop, and so is the rtmp thing. Well, good thing I know how to use SSH.
To use the waydroid_script with pyenv, you just run sudo -E env PATH=”$PATH:/usr/sbin” PYENV_ROOT=”$PYENV_ROOT” python3 main.py, but clicking hacks doesn’t work. Didn’t try specifying a hack though. Worked enough to install crap though.
Now to install podman on laptop. Don’t want to lookup how to install this crap in openSUSE Tumbleweed.
And want to see if ADBTuner works before using a VM.
Update
Waydroid broke itself a while ago, never really used it. Well, too lazy to do anything about it. Tried a little. Then was doing something else. Just will use Philo in a web browser.
Without logging in there was some deal for new customers. So thought I should just login.
And logged in, and I got the legacy plan for $25 a month.
Comedy Central, Discovery, and History. And only one bill. That goes to people that aren’t complete dicks.
Also, all my saved shows are still saved, so should start recording shit again.
DirecTV seemed to say, once it’s cancelled, you’d have to re add the shows as well, if you happen to sign back up.
Also, my prepaid card worked just fine.
Don’t care about recording it to my local drive. They have a DVR. I can stream it to Kodi, using LibreWolf, and OBS, and a rtmp server. And you can probably do it without OBS as well. Maybe with just ffmpeg.
Could record with Channels DVR, but not paying for that. Not sure I want to automate anything to use a browser to record. Don’t want to get banned as well. Not sure they would. But it would be my fault if I did. cc4c might even work with Philo, without modifying it. Not sure I care enough to try though.
As if it doesn’t work, or stops working, I won’t mess with it again. Might just be a waste of time.
I assume it renews for that price as well.
Also, the only reason to get their $33 plan, is if you want HBO Max and AMC+, unless Discovery+ has something not on the Discovery channel, or on HBO Max. All I watch, I was getting on Philo before.
Instead of paying a dick, that won’t let me easily use the browser I want to watch it, I’ll pay these guys instead. Changing the user agent isn’t hard, but now I don’t need the damn extension. Too lazy to change it for everything. And also, people using LibreWolf, probably don’t want to do that anyways.
Makes their tracking work better, if we all have an almost identical ID. But you got to use Tor Browser, or Mullvad, for the best anti tracking BS.
Both probably work without connecting to Tor, or a VPN. But I’m incredibly lazy.
Also, you probably don’t want any extensions, in it, other then what it comes with.
So maybe just use those browsers, for most stuff. Like the tracking shit.
Pain to login to sites though. Well, I use Linux, so I could find a solution, or make my own, without copying and pasting. Just basically need a system tray icon for the password manager, that lets me do everything from it.
Need to check Mythtv to see what it was recording from DirecTV. Make sure it’s all on Philo. No idea if I even added any new shows to record either since I signed up for DirecTV.
Make sure you try signing up for Frndly TV before cancelling Philo though. Cause if you use the wrong type of card, good luck.
They don’t take prepaid debit cards. See here.
And you know why? Cause, if they did, they wouldn’t be able to automatically charge you as easily.
Well, that may be a good enough reason, to not bother ever signing up with them. No matter how “cheap” it is.
Philo I could get again, and not have to pay for anything else, and get most if not all the shit I watch anyways. They took my card no problem.
I used a prepaid card for something once. And they just kept trying to charge me.
Guessing you can’t cancel Frndly TV then without calling them. Well, no thanks. That’s why they kept trying to charge that card, cause I didn’t want to call them.
Still don’t want to call somebody just to cancel something.
Comcast you probably do as well. But the good news is, if I have no money, good luck charging me anyways.
Also, I pay with Comcast for that reason. I don’t put a checkmark to save any info. But I don’t trust them.
Want a lie, see the cancel page here.
We understand that canceling subscriptions isn’t always easy, so we made the process as simple as possible.
Hmm, and then look at instructions for if you signup on Frndly TV’s site.
How about click one link, and it’s cancelled? Or two links. Not three. Or one link, and an un cancel button. Just say the damn thing is cancelled after clicking it, and then provide an un cancel button for those who “accidentally” click it. Or they could just design the site better, so no one clicks it accidentally. Might be a pain to find for some reason though. Considering they have that on their help site.
How about all of them, put a cancel at the top of every fucking page then?
Well, no Frndly TV for me.
Even if I get another account, and use it for paying for stuff. To stop that, they’d have to block my entire bank most likely. Good news is, I “researched” enough, to know I don’t want it anyways.
Not paying to play a cat and mouse game.
And a bunch of other reasons to not pay for it as well.
If you login too many times, then at least one method to get a “security” code is gone. Got to wait 24 hours.
Well, if you cancel, it can take three business days to cancel. So good thing I did it now.
You can pause it for “free” for up to three months. Then forget to unpause it, and pay to pause it.
And if you don’t get an email with the “security” code, then what? You can’t login. Took long enough to get the damn email anyways.
Somebody looks into your account, they can just keep clicking resend, until that method is no longer available.
Where’s the two step code app option that is also “security”?
Where’s the passkey option?
it’s all about security isn’t it?
Oh and it likes logging me out of the account thing as well. And I have to then get another “security” code to login.
Even using a supported browser, I get logged out.
Easier to cancel it now, then deal with this shit.
And if I can’t login, better make sure there’s no money in PayPal.
Well, got to go to the bank soon anyways. See if I can get another account, so I can use that debit card for online shit instead of PayPal.
Easier to get a new card from them as well, just go there, and get one, the same day. No need to rely on the secure mail either.
Is that the same as the Beurer BF720? They look similar, but not exactly the same. And might use a different app.
Well, I’ll find out tomorrow, if it works with openScale. Too tired to mess with it tonight.
And if it doesn’t, I’ll probably just manually enter the weight.
I paid $25 at my local CVS.
Likely the same thing, the app name for it is slightly different in the US apparently.
beurer HealthCoach, this may be the only one I can locally buy at a store that might work with openScale then.
The other scale wasn’t working, and the batteries seemed to have a charge. And never put any batteries in it, different ones, or same ones. Don’t know if it works or not. Too late to try, and don’t care.
Update
It works, nice. Wanted a new scale that works with an open source app after all. Took 30 minutes or so to get it working with the app.
You need to make a profile. And setting the app up correctly will save you time. Enter the wrong consent code. Might as well force close app, as that’s how good Android is, and then clear all the data.
I deleted the database first. But instead of force closing and reopening, I just cleared all it’s data as well. Still showed my user, couldn’t add my user.
Can’t seem to change the consent code, which is basically the PIN code. Don’t ask me if the profile is setup right, I didn’t read much of anything. I just click set on some stuff, except for the obvious stuff, like my birth year. The time when first setting it up. The year when first setting it up. And my height.
Didn’t even read the PIN on the scale either the first time. Didn’t notice the thing that asks for the PIN, until I clicked pair at some point in the right order. Might need to setup a profile after setting the time to get that to show up as well. Well I finally found the PIN, and then was fucking with the app for a while.
Might have lost weight. No idea, the last weight I know, I had clothes on. How much do my clothes weigh? No idea. Too lazy to weigh again with my clothes on.
Also, I’ll be getting weighed soon anyways with my clothes on. Though I do wonder, would they care if I just take all my clothes off? It’s in a hallway basically.
They might say “You can leave your clothes on”. But my clothes means an inaccurate result, as far as I know.
Well, apparently, it’ll upgrade the firmware with the web thing, if you use Chrome in Windows.
Apparently some people had luck opening new tabs to upgrade the older firmware.
And possibly with the one I wanted.
Well, if I knew I’d have to use Windows, not sure I would have bought any of them.
Had to use a VM, and forgot the Bluetooth on the PCIe card uses USB most likely for the Bluetooth part. Well, good thing that worked, cause the other one Windows won’t install the driver for automatically. What a shitty ass OS.
Guess I needed to read their entire issues on GitHub to find all the reasons not to buy it.
I’m updating using the RetroScaler firmware, not the official firmware. Cause apparently, people have issues with the official firmware on this clone crap.
Just waiting for it to finish now. 100%, but might take a while, or not finish at all.
Almost 3 AM. Good way to stay up early.
Might not bother doing anything else if this works. Doesn’t work, might just go to bed as well.
It just disconnects really quickly in Chrome in Linux, and Chromium. And Vivaldi doesn’t work at all, that was the Flatpak as well as the official Chrome. Too lazy to install crap I don’t want, some other way. Chromium might be anyways.
Maybe I should go pee, and just go to bed. Maybe it’ll be done when I wake up. Or not. No idea how long it’s been either.
Where are the BlueRetro things with USB? Cause this is a real pain in the ass. Oh yeah, might be on eBay. Well, should have bought that clearly. Then I wouldn’t need Windows.
Hmm, there’s one on eBay, I didn’t notice before. Says open box, the four port one, and has USB C. But who made it? If it’s homemade, then it can likely use official firmware without issues.
Oh China and open box.
I usually filter to US only. So no wonder I didn’t see it.
Well, might not be sold in the US, at least on eBay.
And I need to remember not to reset the damn thing, if so, I might be using a VM again. Also, if it resets itself, well I will be to.
Got the firmware updated sometime after I woke up. You may or may not need Windows.
But you do need a working firmware. The official firmware, the hw1 one works.
Might have worked when trying it again after waking up, from Linux, if I used that firmware. No idea how far it got until it disconnected. Was eating.
You can probably use Chrome or Edge in Windows.
But they should really say, you need Windows basically to update the firmware. All browser bluetooth shit in Linux might be experimental. And they might as well say you need Edge as well. When I tried with Edge, I didn’t even need to enable any experimental flags.
Don’t know if I can update the firmware from Linux or not. Or even if I needed to.
But I can change settings in Linux using Chrome.
Not sure it works good enough to update the firmware though.
The best one to get, is one with USB. Not sure any US seller has it though.
It’s a cheapo SATA SSD. From a brand, that a lot of people will say is “bad”.
Around 49 MB/s I think f3write said for the average, which may be wrong. Was shitting though, so didn’t see much before that.
And when I looked at GParted, copying from the microSD, to this SSD, it was almost 90 MB/s. Is that reading or both? Maybe both.
And in that case, that’s pretty good read speed for a shitty microSD card, and probably a better write speed then the Kingston SSD that was in the enclosure. Even 49 MB/s, might be faster then the Kingston, no idea.
But 49 MB/s for write speed on a microSD, might be harder to sustain on a microSD. But I don’t pay a ton of money on microSD cards, so I don’t know about the “better” ones. And maybe I should say a ton more as well.
They like dying in the Raspberry Pi. Even had a Samhung endurance card die. Not sure it was dead before taking it out of Pi though.
Either way, all microSD cards die eventually. And lots of them die faster in a Pi.
So going to use a USB SSD instead. I don’t think a Pi 4 or 4B, whatever it is, actually has PCIe that can be used for a SSD anyways. The shit I saw, said it would be USB. Therefore, I just got a drive, and used this enclosure.
Will it boot without changing anything though? Forgot about that before shutting it down and putting microSD in card reader. And too lazy to change DNS on anything, to look it up.
The downside of shutting down the Pi. Might be done though, should probably check it.
And then if it doesn’t boot, I’ll have to put the microSD card back in, and change something.
Funny, this SSD is slightly smaller then the microSD card. And you know why? Cause not all people that make SSDs are doing anything the exact same way. The flash chips though, might be similar to other brands. How many companies actually make the flash chips anyways?
But some of the cheapo brands on Amazon, are fake at least for microSD cards. Might as well test the SSD, wanted the write speed anyways. Not sure f3write is a great tool for the write speed though, but it looks like the drive is good. But did I even look at the output of f3read? Good question. Well, the average read speed I think was 400 MB/s or so.
Might need to disable, UAS though. Had to disable UAS on my Insignia dock on the Orange Pi 5, cause it crapped out while backing up. And it doesn’t appear to be the chipset that starts with a J either. But it’s plugged into a hub now, somebody said that fixed something like that for them.
So maybe I re enabled UAS, now I get to wait till next month, to see if it craps out again. Too lazy to run a manual backup.
Didn’t have to do shit, not even edit /etc/fstab. Guess GParted clones it. Good reason to copy it with GParted. Does dd do that too?
Well, if you restore a backup, to a new disk, and don’t change the UUID after making new partitions, you have to change the /etc/fstab. Maybe not if you do a dd backup. But instead, just backup the UUID, and use something else. Even if a DD backup can be made smaller, I’m too lazy to do it. Or look it up.
And the microSD in it, isn’t as shitty as some people would say the brand I thought was in it. It actually has a Samhung Endurance in it apparently. Thought it was a PNY though. And the USB PNY flash drive I have, is super slow. Possibly slower then some of their microSD cards. Well, don’t need to write anything new to it anyways. It’s good to go.
All I would need to do really is put a new ISO on it, and edit the grub file. Might last long enough, especially since it’s just sitting on the desk. Who knows when or if I’ll need it.
You can get a better flash drive or anything from PNY anyways, just spend more on a different one. How much more? Who knows. Might even be the same price. Depends on where you buy it. And if you want to buy it locally. So could be cheaper as well.
But nowadays, everything costs more.
The write speed according to dd, is around 80 MB/s. And the read speed according to hdparm is almost 200 MB/s.
Don’t know what the Pi 4 is capable of.
Also it’s plugged into a HDD dock’s USB 3 port as well.
So might just be faster on my desktop for that reason, if it is.
The USB regular drives might be faster over the network when writing. Don’t know about dd though. Don’t care that much anyways.
It depends on the command that I used as well. Or the arguments.
It’s using uas, and I think I read, if it’s slow, you might need to disable UAS for it.
Slightly slower now. For the write speed. Slower read speed too.
So probably not uas. But might be the port on dock.
And I’d need to buy a USB hub to fix that. But what version is the USB on the Pi 4 anyways? Cause the port is 3.0 on the dock. Looks like 3.0.
But need to change the dd command slightly. Might as well run on laptop while it’s rebooting, both ways too.
835 MB/s. On internal drive, the same way as I ran on Pi. Well, not running it the other way on internal drive. See what the external drive says. Will likely be too high, to bother running it both ways.
And it’s apparently slower. Are these arguments for a regular hard drive? Maybe so.
The AI says to use oflag=direct for the SSD, and said oflag=dsync for disk.
And only reason I look at that, is it’s at the top of the damn search results. Seems like a “smart” AI. And yes, it should show ssd and hdd commands together. If you search for “disk”.
And now on Pi, it’s 101 MB/s for the write speed.
Still not as good as my desktop most likely. But might be just good enough for me, to not bother testing it directly plugged into Pi.
Also, oflag=direct says around the same speed on my laptop’s external SSD. Which is under 40 MB/s.
Not sure I care enough to lookup the SSD in USB enclosures for the Pi 4 either.
I kind of doubt this SSD on laptop is this slow, unless I plugged it in wrong. Oh yeah, I unplugged it a while ago on accident. Hmm, but I think the entire thing came out. Not the C cable. But who knows, my memory sucks nowadays.
Just copy from the network to it, if it’s under 80 MB/s or so, say 50 or less, then it’s probably plugged in wrong. Nice adapter.
Looks faster, so dd command doesn’t like this drive.
And if you run it without direct, it’s 2 GB/s, which isn’t right. Need to clear the cache most likely.
Don’t think this drive is capable of 2 GB/s. And not using the direct even after clearing the cache, doesn’t change it.
Just change it to 10G.
If you put usb in front of ssd in search, you get yet a different command.
Also, 10G gets around 30 MB/s as well. Without any flags.
The read speed is around 40 MB/s with hdparm.
But with KDE, it said what I get over the network from the drive on Pi. But then, if the drive is too slow in KDE, it says it’s done before it’s done. Not sure though that’s the case.
Still odd, hdparm says the read speed is only 40 MB/s. Cause I never noticed any damn issues. And I might @ 40 MB/s.
Same speed plugging cable in other way. Well, don’t ask me then. I could check some commands, but even so, makes no damn sense. Read speed might be slightly more.
Should make sure the cable is plugged in right though. Or it might have issues. Might just need to undo what I did.
Plugged it back in the other way, and copying a bigger file from Pi, and fine so far. Looks like dd is just slower for some reason.
Looks like the file is there to me, it’s got a preview, and opened it, and fast forwarded. No issues. Good enough for me.
And dd might not be the more realistic benchmark anyways. Might be info from the “smart” AI itself as well. Then why say use dd?
Well, too lazy to use anything else, unless I have kDisk installed on my laptop. But I’d need a terminal thing on Pi.
Set kDisk to 4 GB. Now to get off my ass, and eat some pretzels. And get more water. And then go to bed soon.
Well, the Flatpak version is slow.
Testing the Debian one now. Maybe Debian has some odd issue, after the upgrade.
And bypassing the filesystem, might be an issue. If the SSD has fast and slow flash. And no idea, it’s a Crucial made to be USB SSD. And it’s also, faster most likely, if I plug it in by C, but then I lose a USB4 port on the dock. But it should be faster then under 40 MB/s write anyways.
If kDisk is using dd, it’s kind of pointless.
Hmm fio deletes data? Probably it’s own data.
And how do you write to a drive, without writing to it? Or they don’t want the delete part?
Wow, this AI sure is smart. I didn’t write KDE Dolphin is slower, the opposite.
All the results aren’t right either. Now to type it with slower instead, since apparently, it’s opposite day.
Nope, it doesn’t know what “faster” means.
Typed it all differently, and still nothing I want. That’s enough searching for now. The internet just keeps getting more stupid.
Sigal already exists. Just password protect the domain or subdomain or folder. Upload it to your hosting.
Shared hosting is cheaper anyways.
I resized the images to 1024×768. A little under 5 MB the entire folder is. Just the JPGs with original size are over 100 MB.
Looks like I have plenty of space on my hosting. I can always rm -fr the static folder, and then remake it with just one gallery anyways.
The problem would be sharing the original files. But if somebody just wants one or two or so of the bigger resolution files, they’ll probably ask.
But most people are looking on their phone.
I forgot to send those photos as well. And sending the original photos is a pain with email. And don’t want to upload them to Gmail anyways.
Don’t want to use my better email to email somebody with Gmail either. Hmm, probably don’t really need that email address.
As I’m planning on getting nothing from the government by the end of the year anyways. What will I need email for?