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Might be because HDR isn’t enabled. But also, I think my OTA recordings always looked better then the TV Everywhere ones. If more stuff was OTA, I don’t think I’d bother paying for DirecTV Streaming. All I’d want is the History channel.

Might have just forgot what the TV looked like as well. Haven’t been watching much.

But I think I was watching a TV Everywhere show, that wasn’t working on the Apple TV, or very well on my laptop, and it looked better. The encoding settings were likely wrong.

But they might match pretty closely, without HDR enabled. HDR might be enabled on Apple TV. Well, now I might be in the no HDR camp. No way to know if I’d like it on an expensive TV, not worth it to me. Or probably anybody I know even. I might say they should compare the image with HDR off though. But they probably don’t care anyways. And I’ll likely forget as well.

They just want to sell more TVs, so the feature doesn’t actually need to make anything better. If some people don’t know that the HDR is useless on certain TVs, then people will likely over pay for TVs. Like some people would rather buy a name brand cheap TV, then a cheapo TV that might be actually better. I trust Consumer Reports more then myself, they most likely bought and tested TVs. Not enough money to do that myself. Not buying one TV, and then returning, then buying another, returning, and then trying to remember which one looked the best, so I can rebuy it. The store might get mad at you as well. But I’m also incredibly lazy.

Wouldn’t want to order a TV online either, as if it’s defective, returning might be a real pain. I got a more expensive TV before this Vizio, and it was defective, bought in town. But easier to return. Then I just bought a Vizio. I regretted it for a while, cause it seemed to have a really good picture, other then whatever was wrong with it. But now I think I was wise. Also, HDR could have been enabled on both of them. Would make sense it would have a possibly way better image if both TVs had HDR enabled.

The question is, what did they look like side by side, with HDR off? And other settings somehow matching as close as possible? And one thing that looks good to one person, might look bad to somebody else.

So it doesn’t really matter. If my TV dies, if I have enough money, and can buy one in town, I don’t know what brand size or anything I’ll get. I might just get the cheapest one I can find, maybe even a used one.

CRTs are still good for retro gaming, the games look how they are supposed to, and there’s less likely to be any input lag issues. I don’t have anywhere to put a CRT TV, not even one of those little ones I played games on as a kid.

Wonder if they sell little CRT TVs new anymore though, probably not. If I had room, and could get a new one, I might though. If they aren’t made anymore, then the price of used ones might be too much.

$150 for 19″ one used on eBay. They probably don’t make them anymore. I don’t want to play retro games enough or have any room anyways. I can still play them anyways, just might not look the same, and might have latency issues. The latency issues, you can probably make better to a point. Just got to mess with lots of settings.

But not sure I notice latency issues anyways. Would be nice to see them how they used to look though.

You could probably use video filters to sort of make it match. But that might use resources on the computer. And how close will it match with enough resources anyways?

There’s a 20″ used for around $50, but I just realized, I doubt you’ll get free shipping. For anything under $100. The higher price, more likely to have “free” shipping.

Found a new one, $300, and over $100 shipping. Well, no point for me then. Some brand I never heard of. Maybe in some places in the world, you can buy new CRT TVs, and that means, thanks to the Trump tax, it’ll cost a fortune here. Well, almost nothing is made here anyways. Just cost more here, because the market for one is so little.

Hmm, an Insignia, must have kept it in the box for a long time. Way too expensive as well.

Will a 5″ weather TV work? Might be able to find that some other site with “free” shipping.

Looks like it could, but black and white only. Can’t remember if that little TV I used was black and white only though. Might have been, no idea. But color would be kind of nice. Still nowhere to put it, not even a 5″ one. Too much crap in here. Too lazy to do anything about it.

Does it have to be a CRT TV though? What about a non HD LCD TV? If all I want is it look the same, without using video filters. Well, also, the TV being CRT would be like when I was playing games on the little CRT as a kid.

But a 7″ LCD TV thing, is only around $90. And “free” shipping. And takes up less room. Kind of like having a tablet. But what’s the resolution? And will the colors match a CRT?

Considering LCD isn’t CRT, the image probably won’t be exactly the same. Better off, using a screen I have.

Don’t care about how big the screen is. Just want it to look the same as it did.

Another option, is to get one of those hardware things, that make retro look better on newer TVs. Maybe there’s something just for computers with HDMI, other then using the computer itself. Well, you could use a different computer I suppose.

That is probably the best option anyways. If you have no room for any CRT TV. Even a small one.

Using Kodi in Wayland mode. And you got to do some work to get Kodi working with external video players in Sway. I made a script with a while loop, that checks if it’s still running. Guess you could put a trap in the script, and then kill the while loop doing that as well. But make sure you sleep before running the while loop to check if mpv is running or whatever video player. Or make two loops.

Would be better to use a trap, and then stop the loop. Hmm, not sure that would work anyways. Too bad you can’t seem to just run the command without the swaymsg command returning something. Didn’t try without exec. Don’t care enough to do so.

I also installed Multimedia Player Remote Interfaces for Kodi no need to change the key settings for MPV. I also installed the Bluetooth Kodi add on from Kodi Repository for Linux Tools.

To get the Bluetooth add on working with Flatpak, you have to add a override, with some talk command, and if using Bluez, the value for the talk is org.bluez.

Don’t see the point in using Gnome. And don’t think GBM works with external video players. Then I get a nice audio delay when unpausing video, which apparently annoys the fuck out of me. If I could find something else to use besides Kodi, I would try using it. I tried with Pipewire and all it’s crap removed, and I still get the audio delay.

Can’t share any scripts, since the Atari VCS is sleeping. But all the info you need, is still on the internet.

And I might need to switch to Sway on my laptop, it might even have Adaptive Sync, wonder if that AMDGPU bug affects it too. Well, even if it does, I like Sway better now. It’s not bloated like Android. You can make it as bloated as you want.

Probably could make a custom smart TV interface with it as well.

Think at least one person has, their config is on GitHub. But using Sway + Kodi is easier.

Also Wayland might get HDR with Kodi in the next release, you could not use the stable version and get it sooner. Don’t care about HDR on my cheap/old TV.

Also, most of the stuff I watch, doesn’t have HDR.

Tried cleaning it with The Pink Stuff. Got to use water to get the Pink Stuff out. Used two sponges, one for the Pink Stuff, and paper towels. Just paper towels might work to get it out, but if you get a paper towel completely wet, it won’t be lasting very long.

If I didn’t leave it on while cleaning it, and let it dry for a week, maybe it would still work.

Also, no idea how the Pink Stuff is that great. Dawn probably would work just as good or better. I cleaned the glass thing with dawn, and that was fine.

Not the outlet, tested that earlier. Plugged new microwave in, and it turns on. Will probably use it tomorrow.

The brand is Maytag, not that it matters. Never heard of them, but mom has. But the brand doesn’t even matter, the other one was a Hamilton Beach and lasted a long time. Also, how many people make microwaves or the tech inside microwaves?

I’m pretty sure the panels in TVs are only made by some people. Funny, a cheapo no name TV, is better then a cheap brand name TV. Just look at consumer reports. That’s why I bought this cheapo no name monitor. Still works, and looks better then my cheapo Vizio TV. Should have bought a cheaper TV then the Vizio. But I bought that who knows when. I know, I won’t buy a name brand TV or monitor. Vizio may or may not be a “brand name” TV, depends who you ask. Seems more of a brand name TV, then some cheapo brands. But at this point, a cheapo TCL or Hisense is probably better. Just look at that site with reviews on TVs.

Now if you want HDR, you apparently have to spend a lot of money. And some people don’t like HDR, probably cause of the cheap TV. If you want HDR, go with OLED or something.

I need a new stomach more then HDR. Too bad I can’t get one.

Target didn’t have that many microwaves. The Black+Decker ones didn’t even say the wattage. This one is 1000 watts, so about the same as old one. I looked in the Target app to see if my in store order shows on there, it does, clicked the microwave I bought, and shows a Black+Decker, and it’s only 700 watts.

I had a low wattage microwave before, and it’s kind of annoying. Got to add lots of time to everything. Not even sure how much time this will need added or not. But TV dinners, are usually based on over 1,000 watts.

Could have spent $10 more and got 1100 watts. But I think saving $10 is better.

Panasonic might be a Japanese brand, but if the microwave isn’t made in Japan, there’s no point in spending that much on one. Spent over $100 anyways, got some other stuff I needed as well.

She might be right, that you can’t buy some stuff in town anymore. Well, I might not be replacing any broken stuff then.

Can still buy food in town. Once nobody can, I’ll be screwed anyways.

Well, figured out where shit is downloading in my browser on my phone. Most likely in the work profile. Downloading it again in my main profile. Not many file browsers support the Storage thing, so the app I use for rclone, I have to also use a specific app. Don’t know if that app can access the work profile files though. Don’t want to use the default Google File Manager.

Well, not buying crap you don’t need is nice. Then you can break your microwave and buy a new one. I’ve had that thing so long, it doesn’t matter.

Apparently I needed to buy more water filters. Just used the last one. Like having those on hand. Not sure Target has them though.

But the PUR water filters, might be the cheapest ones. And if you break your wrist, you can get a faucet one. Still use the faucet one, way better. As long as it tastes mostly like nothing, it’s good enough for me. I have ZeroWater filters, and the pitcher is in the fridge with water in it. Should see if somebody I know wants it. I’m not going to use it.

And I wonder if you can 3D print the PUR faucet filter, and then just buy the other things you need. But what kind of plastic would you need? It’s going to get wet, and a lot. In fact, when you change the filter, it has water in it.

Maybe an all metal faucet filter would be better. Well, maybe not the filters themselves. The thing you put the filter in. I’d only want one, if PUR makes one. ZeroWater might cost more, and you have to check the water, and then you have to replace that thing too, when it dies. Or just change the filter when the water tastes funny. This PUR one has a light on it.

Should see if they have a metal one, and if I can use the same filters. Well, if you know how, wouldn’t be hard to make a metal one yourself.

Also, these filters might be smaller then ZeroWater ones, and last longer. Might even be able to use it for even longer, after the light changes colors. Tastes a little off, but not like ZeroWater. ZeroWater intentionally did something, so you’d replace the filter sooner. PUR may have as well, but the taste doesn’t appear to be that strong, or I haven’t waited long enough.

Hard to wait as long, if it has a light. Couldn’t tell right away when that happened, so didn’t look at the light right away. Noticed it was slightly off, then looked at light.

Don’t bother using avahi-daemon for mdns reflecting, you might need it on every device.

Also you need “allow-point-to-point=yes” in avahi on the other device that’s connecting using WireGuard.

And it looks like I need to do one more thing. I did it manually, but might need it in the wg0.conf file. But I also added a route, which might not even be needed. “ip link set wg0 multicast on”, that’s what I need in my wg0.conf. Not deleting the route though, don’t want to add it back.

Plenty of info here.

So I guess the reflector in avahi doesn’t reflect everything on a network to another network? Just local stuff?

Well mdns-reflector works.

How to get avahi-browse working on Android in Termux? Well, you need root. You might need to disable the mdnsd in /system/bin, I just chmod it. Not sure I even needed to though. You can find info on the Termux Github issues, on what you need to do in the avahi-daemon.conf file, but basically enable dbus. And edit some files so avahi and dbus use your non root username, you can get it with whoami.

And to auto start it, you just need to use the Termux boot app thing. Don’t bother with termux-services, it doesn’t work, if you need sudo. And setting up a runit for root may or may not be possible.

Easier to just make a very small script to run dbus-daemon –system and sudo avahi-daemon -D, and the wake command for Termux before that.

But any apps in the other profile, might not work with it, need to wake up the Atari VCS and see if it can find it. If not maybe, the other mdnsd will work. But I got to shit first. Needed avahi-browse, so I can see if it’s even working at all.

Update

And you have to enable multicast on the VPN connection. I’m using WireGuard in kernel mode. And you probably need root to do so. I used the ip command to do it.

This cable was expensive, don’t want anything that’s only on Amazon.

Changed the refresh rate back to 160Hz, it did do the annoying flicker thing once, but that was right after changing it back.

Might be a while before I know. And if it happens again. Then maybe the monitor went bad. I don’t remember it happening in Fedora.

Guess I can try changing the desktop environment. If it comes back.

Or just enable this monitor on the other computer, and see if it does it on there too.

I had to disable AMS in KDE in Debian, thanks to a AMDGPU bug or KDE bug, who knows at this point.

Didn’t do the flicker thing since I changed refresh rate to 60Hz. The cable needs to do more bandwidth to support 4k @ 160 Hz.

And if disabling AMS is causing the annoying flicker, then there’s no point in using KDE. And in Gnome, I have to disable something else for it to work as well, because of the AMDGPU driver.

Pretty sure it did it in Gnome too, at least in VanillaOS. Know it does the freezing thing.

Don’t think FreeSync works with AMS disabled. All the info I read may be old though. Too lazy to enable FreeSync on monitor and in KDE. I can change the setting in KDE, so no idea if it works or not.

There’s one way to find out, turn it on on monitor and in KDE, then play a game, and wait for the FPS to go down. Or use one of those sync test things. Also, you may have to look at the monitor’s settings or wherever it shows the current refresh rate as well.

Update

Might not have needed a new cable. Was doing it, but not as often. Then I checked settings on monitor, and FreeSync was still on. Don’t click the middle of the button on this monitor, you have to click “right” to select/save it. If I click the center of the button it just exits the settings.

Well, it should be off now. But since it was doing it less, maybe this cable was worth around $40 anyways. Will be a while before I know if disabling FreeSync fixes the annoying flickering.

I might have been able to get a cable for under $20 on Amazon, but that brand isn’t even listed on the DisplayPort site with certified cables. And Amazon sucks anyways. They have bad working conditions. Other things aren’t great with them either. It’s possible prime is going away, or my mom ordered stuff not shipped by Amazon.

Wouldn’t be surprised, if prime is useless for shipping soon. They won’t announce it, and people will be pissed.

Not a Dolby Atmos problem for me, even with that on, some apps are fine. VLC has the problem, and various other third party apps. Mostly trying to watch Jellyfin, I think Infuse or whatever doesn’t have the problem. I cancelled that though.

And I changed audio settings as well, nothing fixes it, on the Apple TV itself and the TV.

Pretty sure I’ve had that problem for a very long time.

Well, I finally turned the Atari VCS on it, and put Debian on it. Kodi was having the problem, but might have fixed it with the default video player. Then I put MPV on it, was wondering why two old South Park episodes have no sound. Well, they don’t in MPV either, probably need to re enacode some videos. But MPV is probably better then the default video player anyways in Kodi. There doesn’t seem to be any audio lag at all when unpausing with that.

I don’t like rewinding so I can hear what they say. I need to hear and read at the same time, in case I don’t hear the right words. Also, I might fall a sleep if I don’t have subtitles on as well. Well, maybe not with South Park.

Also not sure how much of the subtitles I’m reading anyways. That’s there for a backup. If I look at my phone while watching Ancient Aliens, I won’t be doing both. Either be scrolling or attempting to scroll and watching TV. But reading what’s on my phone and listening at the same time? No idea how anyone can do that.

And for watching Jellyfin in Kodi, I’m using Jellycon, seemed like the better one to use. At least for me.

Searching for that audio lag problem on the Apple TV, well it appears everybody may be having a different problem. Unless anybody is using exactly the same setup, well it’ll be hard to say.

Also, I think the Atari VCS is plugged into sound bar, but then why does the Kodi and MPV say the audio output is the TV? That looks like the TV model. Change input on sound bar, and no sound.

I do know, that with some stuff plugged directly into sound bar, or the HDMI switch that plugged into sound bar, I can get sound from either input. I clearly need to see what the Atari VCS is plugged into. Cause if it’s plugged into the sound bar, then what input am I using? Not even sure I’m using the right input. I use a universal remote, and I just click a number to change the input, and I clearly forgot what every input is. Well, I just remembered, I can actually connect remote to my phone and see, no need to see what Atari VCS is plugged into.

But by the time I do anything, I might forget I was even going to try to figure that out. Or I’ll forget I could look at an app. Oh wait, I don’t have the app on this phone anyways. Hmm, does it get the settings from the remote? If not, well, no more doing anything to that remote. Might need a new remote, that doesn’t need some shitty app. Just get one of those things that connect to network, and use a open source thing. Doubt one can be bought in town though, so maybe not.

Also, what’s the app called? The remote might be called Sofa something.

Well, at least one person thinks there’s no issue with my memory. I think my counselor called it “brain fog”.

Wonder if I’ll forget to get out of bed soon as well. Or forget to wake up. Or forget to put my pants on, or forget to take clothes off before getting in the shower.

Forgetting to wipe my ass, isn’t that bad, as long as I forget nothing else, like to pull pants up. It’s just shit after all. If you actually care about that, you’d be using water. Otherwise, you are smearing shit all over your asshole. Haven’t you seen South Park?

I have no idea why Americans use toilet paper. Cut down trees to make paper, then wipe our ass, then throw it away. Or make toilet paper out of elephant shit, then wipe our ass with what used to be shit, and then throw it away.

Well, there’s plenty of water somehow still. Cleaner as well doing that. And when the pandemic came, people bought all the toilet paper. I used to care maybe that much about wiping my ass too, not anymore. If there’s a shortage of toilet paper, there’s bigger problems. Also, it’s just shit.

I don’t even care that much if I shit myself either. I don’t usually have anything in my pockets anyways, so there’s no need to care about it for that reason either. Probably can wipe shit off of stuff too.

What’s the benefit in caring about shit? Much worse things can happen then that, especially now. No point in thinking about that though either, whatever is going to happen, is going to happen.

Also, during the pandemic, worse things could and did happen, people died.

Oh yeah, put Debian on the Atari VCS, because I don’t need or want ChimeraOS. Don’t need Steam on it. And found out Kodi might do games as well, and old games is all I’d use the Atari VCS for anyways. Also, Debian is way faster for some reason. I did install it, but formatted incorrectly, only one partition, needed a fat32 partition too. Then I rebooted, and it booted the default OS, and updated. So the updating could have updated the firmware, and made it faster. Or ChimeraOS isn’t worth using at all.

Now if Debian starts freezing on it, because of that AMDGPU bug, then I’ll have to fix it somehow. But it isn’t using KDE or Gnome. I installed from the live Debian with Gnome, but it’s auto logging into the Kodi session. So whatever Kodi is using, is what it’s using.

Was too lazy to download a different ISO to install without Gnome. And I could uninstall it, but I don’t see the point. Plenty of free space. The only thing I might put on it, is a bunch of old games. And any program I put on it, will use less space then all those games. And I might not need to copy the games to it anyways. Just need to access them from one of the things on the network. Assuming the games are on one of them and shared.

Some people are more organized and put everything on one device.

But at this point, less work to just share everything on the network. Then I wouldn’t have to do anything ever again, like download to the right location, copy something if I don’t.

There is no right or wrong way to do that as well. Do it however you want. If the games aren’t on one of the main storage things, I’ll just copy em over most likely. But they might be, can’t remember.

Looks like it’s HDMI IN on the soundbar. That’s the right input. Maybe eARC doesn’t work for the HDMI IN stuff, or not everything.

Possibly for lots of people as well.

If health care premiums actually go up. That’ll just be more variables on why this might be my last Christmas here in this life.

Might also be time, to set my hosting to cancel by the end of the billing as well.

Lots of bad shit could be coming. And most if not all of it, humans doing bad shit to humans. Not just in the US, in the world. And if it isn’t from us doing it, it’s most likely a consequence for something we did. Or completely random, if asteroids hitting the Earth is random.

Wars spread, plenty of wars already. And if France actually sent pamphlets out, that they’ll be at war, there’s World War 3.

People losing health care, is good enough reason for me, to not keep any of this shit online anymore.

For Android, using pyatv. And Kivy, and asynckivy.

Can’t pay for an app from Google Play, and wouldn’t if I could. Don’t have the Google Play app, and if I use the app I use to get apps from there, I might just be giving Google money. I don’t want to give horrible humans anything.

But I was making it too hard. Turns out you just need to use loop.run_until_complete and set loop to asyncio.get_event_loop().

And then when returning it, if you print just task.result, it’ll just show [] apparently.

Just make a for loop, and hope it doesn’t crash. Finally did that, and got the scanning results. Before I think it was crashing on the for loop.

Also, some of the apps on Google Play may be using pyatv, as I think I connected one to my Apple TV, and it added another Pyatv to it.

I also only need a keyboard, as I use a universal remote for everything else on the Apple TV.

Maybe I’ll work on it some more on Monday. My wrist that I broke, doesn’t like how much I’ve been using the computer.

I also need to fix my radio streaming script, as it keeps leaving a sox process in the background, after I stop streaming to VLC. But that’ll get to wait until Monday as well.

I wonder if a microwave that hasn’t been cleaned for a long time, can be cleaned. That’s why I haven’t cleaned it lately. Before I wasn’t cleaning much of anything. Well, I’ll ask somebody, and if they make me think no, then I’ll replace it, unless they cost way too much with the Trump tax.

Better then my cheap watch so far. Works with Gadgetbridge without ever installing the official app as well. Part of the page says you need to use the Nothing app with their watches first, but then for this one says you don’t. So wasn’t 100% sure.

Can’t easily update the firmware, but I don’t care.

The cheap watch which was $20 or so, has a serious issue, it will wake up if it’s touching something, and it has called somebody on accident. I disabled the calling on the cheap watch. In fact, I don’t think I intentionally enabled the calling on that watch.

Says something about do not disturb not working, I think they mean automatically turning it on. Had issues with that on the cheap watch anyways. I can just manually do it on watch and phone, I don’t care. I could have disabled the moving of my wrist to wake it up.

If this one does it too, then I will disable that.

The screen is bigger I think. And being round is different, will take a while to get used to it. Wasn’t sure I wanted it for that reason, but I think I like it.

To change to 12 hour time format, use the Gadgetbridge app.

I didn’t want to spend $150 on the Bangle.js 2 watch, if it went on sale, I might have bought it.

Kind of glad I didn’t though, this $60 watch is nice for the price. You can tell the difference between it and the $20 one. Even the strap is more comfortable.

Don’t care if my watch has WiFi.

I mostly want notifications. Don’t even care if I can respond on a watch, the watch is too small for typing anyways.

Didn’t buy Amazfit, because you need their app at least once.

A bug in Gadgetbridge, could possibly require using the Amazfit app again. You might need it every time you repair it. So if it somehow unpairs it, you have to use the Amazfit app again.

Also, I think all those reviews are fake on Amazon on the $20 watch. Should have looked for some bad reviews. But I’d have to login to see all the reviews. But fake reviews is common on Amazon anyways, and they sell a bunch of junk.

I bought this watch directly from Nothing. Looks like no tariffs, so it came from the US.

At least on this laptop with Debian 13, two freezes today. Maybe PyCharm is triggering a AMDGPU bug.

I disabled the integrated GPU, in case it’s the one crashing. I’m not looking at the logs again, to see if it says, it might not.

I used driverctl, basically set an override to vfio-pci. That is the easiest way to “disable” the integrated GPU on this laptop, I doubt I can in the shitty bios.

Desktop has a 6xxx series AMDGPU too, my eGPU on laptop is, and it almost never freezes. But it’s also running openSUSE Tumbleweed.

But some people are getting these timeout flip errors with Arch Linux, so using a rolling distro might not do any good.

And I forgot both times to try getting into a TTY. Seemed completely frozen, so just forced it off both times.

At least any spyware I’m unaware of, can’t easily run 24/7 with a buggy AMDGPU.

Update

amdgpu 0000:6a:00.0: [drm] *ERROR* [CRTC:85:crtc-0] flip_done timed out

And it’s the eGPU. So disabling the internal GPU didn’t fix anything. And good luck getting in a TTY as well if the above happens, and you disabled the iGPU.

Using openSUSE Tumbleweed might not fix anything, if you search for that, you’ll find results on the openSUSE forum as well.

So I guess the GPU being the same series as my desktop GPU doesn’t matter.

Might be a hardware problem as well, so maybe the GPU is defective. Nice.

Also, can be any hardware. But with an eGPU, is it the laptop or the eGPU? Could be the eGPU enclosure for all I know.

But good luck finding a eGPU enclosure. You can get a thing that you plug a GPU in, but it’s not enclosed. And I only want an enclosure, not with a video card.

I could replace the PSU in it, but no idea if that would fix anything. If it’s the PSU or enclosure, I’d rather just replace the entire thing.

But if I get a new enclosure or something, and it still happens, I just wasted money.

Four results on eBay for eGPU enclosure, when filtering with new only.

Would bad RAM cause AMDGPU to crap out?

Well, you can get a case for those eGPU things. Too lazy to fix printer and print a case. So I’d buy a case. And if the PSU in my eGPU enclosure will work with it, I can try using it first, and see if anything is fixed. Then replace the PSU if not. Then maybe run a memtest if not. Or ditch the laptop. The cheapest option, would be to ditch the laptop.

And good luck finding the EXP GDC TH5P4 from a US seller. I’m not paying Trump money directly. And that’s Thunderbolt 5, so if you find it, and you have no Thunderbolt 5, like me, well might not work anyways. I have USB4. Too lazy to lookup if Thunderbolt 5 is backwards compatible. Amazon might have that one, but don’t search for all of it, or on Amazon. Cause it’s called something else on Amazon, if it’s the same thing.

AOOSTAR AG02 not in stock from US warehouse, and no idea if you can get a case.

Maybe my dock is the issue as well.

Razer Core X V2 that’s for sell, but it’s Thunderbolt 5 and $350. So I guess the old one can’t be bought new anymore. What about refurbished from Razer? Even though Razer kind of sucks.

Their site says USB4, and even Thunderbolt 4. So might work. Not sure I want to spend $350 though.

No PSU, and they want $350. Well standard PSUs, so maybe you can find one cheap enough, but a good one will cost at least $100, maybe more now, thanks to the Trump tax.

They have a bundle for another almost $200. Which has a PSU, but not sure I want a Razer PSU for another $200.

Also, this enclosure I have, might not be compatible with my GPU. Probably older then the GPU.

And you probably need Windows to update firmware on it, and probably no firmware updates.

And might just be a AMDGPU problem, see here.

And disabling FreeSync could fix it as well. But you may have to do on monitor, guess in KDE isn’t enough. Also, what’s the point in a FreeSync monitor if I can’t use it? And didn’t work for one person anyways.

And for some people, “KWIN_DRM_NO_AMS=1” fixes it. And I just commented it out in /etc/environment. Now to reboot. Will that disable FreeSync? Might actually fix it though, considering it was already in /etc/environment, just commented out.

qdbus org.kde.KWin /KWin supportInformation | grep "Atomic Mode Setting"
qdbus: could not find a Qt installation of ''

So after I reboot, that command probably still won’t work, nice. How do I check if it’s disabled then?

qtchooser is useless, can’t even find version 6. Just run qtchooser -l, and 6 isn’t listed.

/usr/lib/qt6/bin/qdbus org.kde.KWin /KWin supportInformation | grep "Atomic Mode Setting"
Atomic Mode Setting on GPU 0: true

I guess that’s the correct way to run it in Debian. Cause the one in /usr/bin/ doesn’t work.

 /usr/lib/qt6/bin/qdbus org.kde.KWin /KWin supportInformation | grep "Atomic Mode Setting"
Atomic Mode Setting on GPU 0: false

Well, it’s disabled. Local WP wouldn’t open, tried opening more then once, then a bunch of processes that couldn’t be killed. Had to reboot again. And wouldn’t reboot, so had to force it off. Maybe disabling the iGPU was a bad idea.

And after rebooting again, it’s doing the weird thing it was doing in VanillaOS, which uses Gnome. Like the screen losing it’s signal for a second or something.

Maybe I should also disable adaptive sync, still set to automatic.

Maybe FreeSync is a spyware thing, only works in OSes with spyware, like Windows.

Disabled FreeSync on the monitor, and haven’t noticed the weird losing signal thing yet. Also disabled in KDE.

Guess I didn’t need a FreeSync 4k monitor. It does have a good picture. And a high refresh rate. But the GPU can’t even do 160 FPS on the highest game settings anyways.

Just did it again. Just not as often I guess. Might need something besides KDE and Gnome then.

Don’t think it was doing it with AMS enabled. So that means it’s related to ASM, and whatever Gnome uses that does the same thing.

Maybe I need KWIN_DRM_NO_DIRECT_SCANOUT=1 as well, it’s in the file commented out.

Might be Pycharm causing the weird issue now though. Might be using Java. Java isn’t that great.